In the past, the French Riviera was considered a beautiful seaside playground only for the rich and famous and glamorous movie stars. But today, it’s possible to live or retire on the French Riviera affordably.
While visiting the Cote d’Azur on business over a span of 15 years, I grew to love some of the coastal towns and even lived like a local in Nice for three amazing months. I thought that I might want to live or retire on the French Riviera, at least part-time. So, I started scouting potential spots along the 180 mile coastline.
So far, I’ve found five stunning candidate towns for me to retire on the French Riviera (Nice, Villefranche-sur-Mer, Cannes, Antibes, and Menton). They all have a thriving Riviera lifestyle filled with breathtaking scenery, sun-drenched beaches, delicious cuisine, friendly locals, rich history, world renowned art and culture, and a dreamy coastal vibe. They’re also well-placed as a home base for extensive day-trips into the region.
And, the icing on the cake is that when you travel like a local abroad, the Riviera lifestyle becomes affordable.
Why Live or Retire in Nice
Staying in Nice is never dull thanks to the charming city’s exquisite natural beauty, divine cuisine, wealth of cultural attractions, laid back coastal lifestyle, and ideal location for taking day-trips along the stunning Riviera coast.
With Nice’s natural beauty, the city is revered as the Riviera’s crown-princess offering azure-drenched coastal views from the famous pebbled crescent beach. The city absolutely astounds as you walk the coastal Promenade des Anglais and you are treated to never-ending picture-postcard seascapes lining miles of the Cote d’Azur. Of course, there’s always the opportunity to enjoy a café au lait or delicious fresh-catch seafood lunch at one of the beach cafes adorning the beach. Indeed, no matter how many times I walk the iconic boardwalk, it always feels like a dream or some scene out of a movie.
In the provincial village, your daily wanderings can include a visit to the (very) early morning fish market at Place St. Francois, and the late morning flower market at the bustling restaurant-rimmed Cours Saleya in Old Town, one block up from the sea. Or, you may choose to explore Chagall and Matisse museums (both artists lived in Nice), sculptured gardens, or the historic roman ruins on the Colline du Chateau (Castle Hill). A special treat is to spend time at the colorful marina bordered by rows of handsome pastel-hued buildings and specialty seafood restaurants. Almost every day, I went on a self-guided discovery tour which always included a new neighborhood to explore, happy hour to experience, and some time to people-watch while seated on the Promenade, gazing at the gently churning sea.
Due to the city’s prime location, there’s an abundance of available day-trips along the coast and into the surrounding hills, like Eze, my favorite hilltop-perched village with breathtaking views of the coast below. Another beautiful fortified village of interest is Peillon perched beautifully on a rocky cliff. Other nearby spots included: Villefranche-sur-Mer, Cap d’Ail, and Monte Carlo.
Why Live or Retire in Villefranche-sur-Mer
Villefranche-sur-Mer sits about 25 minutes away from Nice and is one of the most beautiful Riviera gems. Many visitors to Nice are not even aware of the quintessential fishing village nor its ring of stunning scenic walking trails that wind along the coastal rim to Beaulieu-sur-Mer, and the famous resort Cap Ferrat.
While touring the village, you are met by a handsome ochre-tinted and pastel-hued old town, rising gradually above the sea. You’ll also glimpse the colorful marina packed with luxury yachts along the picturesque harbor which is dotted by smaller boats. A favorite pastime is the old town’s large esplanade along the water which is packed with a variety restaurants boasting fresh-catch specialties.
I’ve often thought that Villefranche-sur-Mer could be an alternative destination to staying in Nice. With Nice only 20 to 30 minutes away, you can enjoy both Riviera ‘worlds’ – a bustling provincial town versus a low key former fishing village.
And, like Nice, there are plenty of great day-trips to top spots along the coast and inland.
Why Live or Retire in Cannes
Many know Cannes due to the town’s Film Festival reputation – when all the glamorous stars come out to bask in the glitz, sunshine, and glory. Like most spots along the Riviera, Cannes was also once a quiet fishing village but today it’s a famous, high energy Riviera resort destination. However, in between the fanfare intervals and densely touristed high seasons, Cannes has a more laid back atmosphere, offering art museums, historic icons, fun attractions, amazing cuisine, and gorgeous beaches.
Rimmed by palm trees, you can ramble along La Croisette, Cannes’ lively boardwalk bordering the Riviera coast with sanded beaches, not pebbled like in Nice. Along the wide promenade, you are greeted by a stretch of classy beach restaurants, high-end hotels and designer shops brimming with high fashion couture and lavish jewelry. The mile-long boardwalk is also the address for the Palais des Festivals, where the celebrated Film Festival is held each year.
Every time I visit stunningly beautiful Cannes, I find myself breathing in the azure sea and feasting my eyes on the enchanting hill-rimmed seascapes while also enjoying the hustle and bustle of this fascinating, one of a kind, coastal gem.
As an avid people-watcher, I can attest that Cannes tops the list for watching the world pass by. Indeed, it’s almost like a movie film unfolding right in front of you …
Day-trips from Cannes include a visit to the lle Sainte-Marguerite which is home to Fort Royal, the 17th century prison once housing the ‘Man in the Iron Mask’ and the Cassis beach resort, famous for its ‘Cassis Calanques”, known as the ‘fjords of the French Riviera’.
Why Live or Retire in Antibes
On my last Riviera excursion, I dropped in to explore Antibes, a resort town between Nice and Cannes. What I discovered was rich history, a village-like atmosphere, and a friendly mix of locals and expats.
Antibes’ charming old town is enclosed by a 16th century fortified wall which is walkable along the sea coast. A short stroll along the ramparts leads to Picasso’s temporary residence in 1946 (now the Grimaldi museum) and Antibes’ archeological museum filled with prehistoric fossils and ancient artifacts.
In the charming old town, you’ll find lively outdoor cafes shaded by colorful umbrellas and at its edge, a picturesque yacht-rimmed marina. Adding to the provincial vibe is the bustling Marche Provencal covered market selling regional cheeses, wines from Provence, traditional meats, local farm to table produce and, of course, fresh-catch fish.
Just across the bay is the lush Cap d’Antibes peninsula, populated with world-renowned luxury hotels, specialty restaurants, and Mediterranean resort activities. There’s an interesting walk around the famous Cap d’Antibes’ “Billionaire’s Bay” dotted with soaring skinny pine trees and grand villas. On the far side of the forested Cap d’Antibes peninsula, lies Antibes’ famous neighbor to the south, Juan-les-Pins – a chic seaside resort with a buzzing nightlife and numerous Jazz festivals.
Day-trips from Antibes include a visit to the Cap d’Antibes to walk or hike the cape’s spectacular natural beauty, and to see the opulent grand villas that populate the cape.
Why Live or Retire in Menton
Just 20 minutes away from Monte Carlo and minutes away from the Italian border, Menton boasts the warmest cold-weather retreat on the Riviera. Equally appealing is the curved beachline, picturesque old port, and the historic center where shopping is the destination, especially at the covered market. Menton is also famous for its bounty of the freshest lemons and oranges – so much so that the town holds a Fete du Citron (Lemon Festival) every year.
Menton is not known for any of the glitz and glamour found in other spots along the coast, such as at Monte Carlo and St. Tropez. And, partly because of that, the city has a provincial small town vibe which is welcoming and immediately makes you comfortable. I enjoyed walking the cobblestone streets filled with handicraft kiosks and interesting shops of all sorts, catering mostly to tourists overflowing from Monte Carlo or those crossing over from Italy.
Drawing tourists to Menton is the famous Jean Cocteau Museum, right on the beach, and the town’s beautiful gardens like the Bioves, Serre de la Madone, and Botanique Exotique de Menton. Meanwhile, six of Menton’s beaches also entice many to its shores, especially since the city claims the best winter weather on the Cote d’Azur.
With Menton sitting almost on the Italian border, you can imagine that traditional dishes include a mix of interesting and delicious French-Italian dishes. While Menton has a lot to offer the visitor, what I enjoyed the most there, was the gracious village itself with a small town coastal vibe.
Day-trips from Menton include Monte Carlo, Nice, Villefranche-sur-Mer and excursions to the Italian Riviera.
To book activities & day trips along the Riviera, see here.
Retire on the French Riviera Tips:
Find out where to eat like a local in Nice at lunchtime, see here.
For info on how to best experience your destination, see here.
