Thank goodness I can always go back to Florence . I already know where to stay in Florence neighborhoods which sit on both sides of the Arno River. After living in a spectacular Renaissance fairyland for 3 exciting months, I realized that Florence had become my most beloved foreign city and that someday I would return, for a third time.
Living like a local in Florence as a solo digital nomad, I rented an apartment, shopped for food with the locals, and enjoyed Tuscan cuisine and wine. On my daily discovery walks through the city, I explored where to stay in Florence neighborhoods and which are the best for immersive experiences (you’ll find 7 of my favorites below).
Where to Stay in Florence Neighborhoods – Duomo or Oltrarno Side
Birthplace of the Renaissance, Florence feels like a living, breathing city museum where you can walk in the footsteps of the Renaissance Masters and visit their era paintings like Lippi’s in the Uffizi Museum, sculptures like Michelangelo’s David in the Galleria dell’Accademia and architectural masterpieces such as the Duomo and Baptistry in the Piazza del Duomo. With a treasure trove of Renaissance era remainders dotting the cityscape, it’s easy to imagine living in that time and stunning to experience – even if just vicariously.
Since the enchanting city is compact and well-designed, you can walk to just about any of Florence’s major landmarks, sights, markets and restaurants when you stay in one of the neighborhoods featured below. There’s no need to pick a neighborhood based on proximity to a particular attraction and there’s no need for transportation other than your feet.
Unknown to many visitors, the Arno River curves through Florence, creating two sides – the popular historic old city side where the Duomo stands and the lesser known more trendy, ‘local’, bohemian-flair, authentic, artisan Oltrarno side. Each has its own legacy, storied history, and a treasure trove of Renaissance masterpieces. With six bridges along the Arno, it’s easy to bridge the divide.
Bottom line, when planning where to stay in Florence, it’s a good idea to look at both sides of the river.
Historic Center – Duomo Side
The historic center is where to stay in Florence for those visitors looking to immerse in Medieval history. Dominating the Renaissance Florence skyline is Florence’s gothic cathedral, Santa Maria del Fiore, capped with its famous shining dome designed by Filippo Brunelleschi in the 15th c. Standing tall in the Piazza del Duomo, are three other architectural masterpieces – 12th c. San Giovanni Campanile (bell Tower), 11th c. San Giovanni Baptistry, and the cathedral’s 14th c. Campanile (bell tower).
Two other prominent city squares, the lively Piazza della Signoria and Piazza della Repubblica, are also iconic destinations – awash in ancient history, pivotal in medieval politics and power. Adorned with Renaissance Masters sculptures (copies) and a wide variety restaurants, cafés, osterias, and wine bars – the two popular piazzas are great for people-watching and especially beautiful at night.
In the historic center, each piazza, large or small, has multiple narrow cobblestone streets spiraling out from the center, leading to intriguing exploration and discovery in the Renaissance era city, brimming with world famous museums like the Uffizi and ubiquitous hidden gems found in palaces and churches.
Old Town Bridge Crossing: Ponte Vecchio
Santa Maria Novella – Duomo Side
My neighbors were antiques – literally. Standing shoulder to shoulder with antique stores, dress shops, and boutique bookstores, my rental apartment in the Santa Maria Novella neighborhood was perfectly poised for daily discovery and adventure in the birthplace of the Renaissance.
Charming Piazza di Santa Maria Novella houses the historic Santa Maria Novella church and serves as the neighborhood’s social hub with two coffee bars, three outdoor cafes, one boutique hotel and one gelateria. With the pretty square just south of the busy train station and friendly Tourist Information (TI) office, it’s a great spot for people-watching during your morning espresso, lazy lunch, or sunset happy hour.
Just down the street from the piazza, if I turned right exiting my apartment, the Arno bridge crossing to Oltrarno awaited the day’s exploration and if I turned left, the Duomo and museums were readily reachable. For shopping and other daily activities, there were fresh markets, family-run grocery stores, bakeries, and drugstores on the street or a short walk away. For dining and happy hour, either direction gifted a bevy of cafés, Tuscan restaurants, and wine bars.
Santa Maria Novella Bridge Crossing: Ponte alla Carraia
Ognissanti– Duomo Side
Not exactly sure about what I had just purchased for my take-out dinner back at my apartment around the corner, I walked on, knowing that the crusty home-made treat was going to be deliciously homemade and 100% compatible with a glass of Chianti Classico. Aware of my extremely limited (almost zero) Italian language prowess, the locals (staff and customers) at the wildly popular local bakery, always graciously took the time to coach me, guaranteeing great picks.
One bridge away, next door to the Santa Maria Novella neighborhood, lies a lesser known charming residential area where the US Consulate, two luxury hotels, and the Chiesa Di Ognissanti (small church famous for Ghirlandaio and Botticelli masterpieces inside) are attractively tucked in. Less trafficked, more residential and laid back, Ognissanti oozes a small town vibe, evident in the friendly neighborhood drugstore, grocery market, wine-bars, traditional restaurants and, of course, bakery.
As you walk Ognissanti’s narrow cobblestone street, you can hop off at any time to walk along the city’s lungarno (riverside walkway), admiring Florence’s six graceful bridges, and kayaks lazily cruising the river. While strolling the lungarno, you can always opt to take a seat at an outdoor café and fully experience the river’s mesmerizing magic.
Ognissanti Bridge Crossing: Ponte Amerigo Vespucci
Santa Croce – Oltrarno Side
A short walk beyond Florence’s Duomo-dominated historic center, looms the impressive Basilica Santa Croce overlooking Piazza di Santa Croce, enveloped in one of the liveliest Florentine neighborhoods. Known as a student hub for the multitude of international students attending universities in the area, Santa Croce offers a fun and vivacious bohemian-tilted ambiance with a smorgasbord of bars, Tuscan-style restaurants, and trendy boutiques lining the buzzing streets
But beyond the Santa Croce Piazza and the main street, it’s less lively and you can wander the afternoon browsing numerous narrow, cobbled lanes and passageways peppering the area, leading to hidden gem discovery of top leather shops and workshops, specialty food shops, lesser known historic landmarks, and wine boutiques.
Santa Croce Bridge Crossing: Ponte alle Grazie
Pitti Palace – Oltrarno Side
Getting lost in Oltrarno became my favorite discovery adventure when living in Florence. All I had to do was exit my apartment building, turn right, and cross the Ponte alla Carraia Bridge, landing on a skinny cobbled street on the other side of the river, where I could easily imagine following the footsteps of Renaissance greats like Michelangelo, and other artisans who had apprenticed and lived on the Oltrarno side of the river.
While much has changed since the Renaissance era in Oltrarno, the city’s ‘other side’ of the Arno River, much has remained the same to a certain extent. Artisans still apprentice and practice their craft, and the culinary scene tends to be more traditional with seemingly more family-run eateries scattered throughout the neighborhoods.
Today, Oltrarno celebrates its more authentic, artisan-rich environment, and proudly claims one of Florence’s most famous attractions – the storied Pitti Palace with its five museums and gardens. The main streets, particularly around the Pitti Palace, are lined with vintage book stores, art galleries, fine leather shops, and an amazing abundance of antique stores filled with extraordinarily beautiful artifacts.
Whether visiting the Pitti Palace, zig-zagging the cobbled lanes, wandering the Boboli Gardens, it was quite certain that the last stop on my discovery walk was the petite Piazza della Passera for a relaxing sunset drink or tasty tidbit while basking in the day’s experiences enjoyed in lovely Oltrarno.
Pitti Palace Bridge Crossing: Ponte Vecchio
Santo Spirito/San Ferdiano – Oltrarno Side
You can’t miss the square’s main attraction spotted from both sides of the city – the imposing 15th c. Santo Spirito Basilica, originally designed by Felippo Brunelleschi. The large, beautiful basilica houses famous masterpieces crafted by the likes of artists Botticini and Lippi and the famous wooden cross sculpted by Michelangelo.
A favorite gathering spot for Oltrarno residents and visitors (myself included), you can either eat and drink inside the Santo Spirito Piazza’s restaurants or dine family-style outside, sitting at large wooden tables, rubbing elbows and chatting with neighbors, while listening to the occasional strolling minstrel. Or, in the square’s parklike atmosphere, you can perch on a bench in the basilica’s shadow to enjoy some great people-watching and the square’s hustle and bustle.
The fun piazza’s traditional-style eateries are well-known for generous portions and, if you come for Aperitivo (happy hour) at dusk, you can expect complimentary tasty tidbits and small plates with the purchase of a drink.
Santo Spirito Bridge Crossings: Ponte Santa Trinita and Ponte alla Carraia
San Niccolo – Oltrarno Side
Considered an avid artisan–friendly neighborhood, Oltrarno’s San Niccolo neighborhood is one of the most authentically traditional spot to live like a local and immerse in the Florentine lifestyle.
With art galleries, eclectic boutiques, vintage ateliers, local-frequented bars and restaurants generously sprinkled throughout the residential areas. Proudly, the charming neighborhood boasts the largest number of street art pieces adorning its buildings.
A major attraction to San Niccolo is its unique position steps below the hilltop Piazzale Michelangelo from where you can enjoy breathtaking panoramic views over the city below – especially stupendous at sunset.
San Niccolo Bridge Crossing: Ponte alle Grazie
More Info: Where to Stay in Florence Neighborhoods
Where to Eat Like a Local in Florence: Gelato
